Method of making shoes



Nov. 7, M334 w. G. HEIBER Er AL, p934352 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES FiledSept. 171952 INVENTORS William Heier Patented Nov. 7, 1,933

UNITED STATE BIETHOD OF MAKING SHOES William G. Heiber and Emil R.

N. Y., assignors to William business as William Heibe Meng, Rochester,G. Heiber, doing & Son, Rochester,

Application September 17, 1932 Serial No. 633,598

8 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of making shoes, and contains in partsubject matter common to application Serial No. 598,488, iiled March 12,1932.

The invention has for its principal object to afford a method of makingsoft or hard soled shoes of the welt type that are durable and may beproduced at a lower cost of manufacture and of neater appearance thanwith processes heretofore followed.

A further object of theinvention is to afford a method by which an upperhaving a welt first stitched thereto is lasted in a quick and econom-Aical way, the outer edge vof the welt being then supported while theouter sole is' cemented to it.

A'further purpose of the invention is the provision of a method by whichtacks can be dgne away with for holding the upper on to the last whilethe sole is cemented and a single instrumentality employed for lastingthe upper and also supporting the welt while the outer sole is cementedto it.

Still another object of the inventionis to afford a method by which thelasting operation can be eiected through clamping instrumentalitiesengageable between the welt and upper of a prewelted shoe to drawAthewelt and edges of the upper under the last, such lasting means beingleft in position while the outer sole is cemented to the welt 'andserving as a support for the welt.

Another object of the inventionis to further reduce the cost ofoperation by applyingcement to the under side of the Welt before it isstitched to the upper and to ornament the upper side of the welt by thesame operation that serves to causethe outer sole to adhere to the welt.

To these and other ends, the invention consists in the method that willappear more clearly from the following description when read inconjunction with the accompanying drawing, the novel features beingpointed 'out in the claims at the end of the specification.

' In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a transverse section of a last and a prewelted upper appliedIthereto, illustrating one possible way of carrying out the invention;

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the ller and outer sole attached, withthe clamping instrumentalities in position between the upper and welt; f

Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the parts illustrated in Fig. 1, and

Fig. 4 is an inverted plan view.

In carrying out the method according to the lpreferred procedure, theupper 1 is formed of suitable material such as soft pliable leather, anda welt 2, which has previously been treated with latex or other suitableadhesive on its under surface, is stitched at 4 to the lower free edgeof the upper.

'Ihe last is then inserted into the upper which is pulled over thebottom of the last by any suitable means such as a wire or other deviceuntil it is in proper position to receive the clamp that is positionedbetween the welt 2 and the adjacent 65 edges of the upper 1, as shown inFig. 2. By drawing the members of the clamp together and securing themin clamping position, the upper is tightly lasted entirely around thelast and held in such position without the use of any otherinstrumentalities luntil the outer sole is attached.

I f desired to use an insole, the latter is positioned between the underside of the last and the inturned edges of the upper and cemented to theupper, as shown in Fig. 1. While it is preferable to` employ the clampfor effecting the lasting operation, as already described, the upper maybe lasted in some other way and held in positionloy tacks 5, as in Fig.1, until the clamp is applied,

as in Fig. 2. But we prefer to use the clamp for 80 both lasting andholding the upper, and thus entirely do away with the use of tacks, asat 5.

A suitable filler 6 is applied substantially ush with v the lowersurface of the welt before the outer sole 22 is secured in position,such filler being 85 constructed of felt, or of granulated cork mixedwith glue or cement and held in position by glue or cement. y v

The clamp employed for lasting the upper end for supporting the weltwhen the outer sole is cemented thereto comprises two parts '7 and 8which are cut away on adjacent sides to afford an opening at the centeradapted to conform to al last which' it is designed to fit. The parts 'Iand 8 are hinged together at one corner by a hinge member 9 which ispreferably U-shaped in crosssection so as to embrace both sides oftheparts 7 and 8. The hinge is pivoted to the parts 7 and 8 by means ofpins or studs 11 and 12.

The parts '7 and 8 of the clamp are preferably 100 in the form of platesof sheet metaland so constructed that when in clamping position, asshown in Fig. 4, the outer contour of the clamp is substantially that ofa rectangle. The adjacent or meeting edges of the plates 7 and 8 arepreferably 105 along the straight lines 13 and 14, one of which extendsfrom the corner to the central opening of the clamp while the othermeetingrline 14 is along the longitudinal axis of the clamp, thearrangement being such as to afford a maximum leverage when drawing theclamping plates together.

One of the meeting lines between the plates of the clamp is embraced bythe hinge 9 while the other meeting line is embraced by a latch orlocking member 15 which acts to draw the clamping plates into engagementwith a shoe upper so as to last the same and hold it in such positionwhile the outer sole is cemented to the welt. The latch 15 is pivoted at16 to the part 'l and is substantially U-shaped in cross-section so asto embrace the opposite surfaces of the parts '7 and 8 to hold them insubstantially the same plane. A stud or pin 17 in the latch is' arrangedto engage a notch formed in the edge of the plate 8 and acts to retainthe clamping members in tight engagement with the shoe. When the latchis swung on its pivot from engagement with the plate 8, the plates. 'Iand 8 are free to swing away from each other and to release the shoe.

The clamping members or plates are substantially flat and arranged inthe same plane except for a slight transverse bending at 18 and 19'so asto conform to the shape of the bottom of the last. The shoeengagingportions or inner edges of the clamping plates dening the enlargedopening in the center are tapered downwardly and inwardly as at 21, toform a clearance for the upperon the upper side of the clamp, whilemaintaining a substantially plane surface on the under side of the clampfor engaging and supporting the outwardly projecting free portion of thewelt. That is to say,` the upper tapered surface l21 and the'lowersubstantially plane surface on the shoe engaging edges of the clamp areshaped to conform tothe space between the upper and welt and to enablethe clamp to engage the upper tightly and draw it over the last to itsproper position to receive the outer sole.

.After the clamp is thus positioned, the outer sole 22 is cemented tothe illler and welt. which.

' latter has previously had an adhesive applied thereto, this operationbeing effected by placing the parts in a suitable pressure-applyingmachine that holds thev last with the upper, welt and clamp and permitsforcing the outer sole against the welt under sufficient pressure tocause a tight and permanent adherence. During this operation, the undersurface of the clamp supports the free pliable edge of the welt so thatthe outer sole can be pressed against the welt with requisite pressure,and a uniformity of attachment secured between the welt and the sole..After the outerl sole has been applied in this manner, the pressure.

operation completed and the cement is set, the clamp is removed and theouter sole and welt ilnished in the usual manner.-

By the use of such a clamp, a wide welt can be employed in a soft soledshoe, giving a greaterv surface contact between the welt and outer soleand thus increasing the efliciency and durability of the product. Such awelt can be stitched to the lower edge of the upper, which would beformed so as to project to a greater extent under the last, or the weltcould project inwardly over the last beyond the upper if desirable. y l

The outer sole can `be formed of either soft pliable leather or of hardsole leather and after it is cemented to the welt in the mannerdescribed, the sole may be stitched to the welt as usual the purpose ofaiiixing the sole to the welt Laagste against the sole and welt, or thesole may be supported and pressure applied against the last be formedthe welt during the 'pressure-applying operation. 4To eiect this, thelower surfaces of the clamping members at the shoe engaging portionsare-formed with a sharp fluting design 23 adjacent to and surroundingthe enlarged opening at the center of the, clamp. When the clampingplates engage the upper in lasting re lation, the fluting-desgn restsuponand engages the upper surface of the welt, so that when pres? sureis applied to the outer sole, the welt is pressed into close contactwith the clampv and the imprintof. the iiuting design is therebytransferred to the Welt.

The method may be practicedin various ways without departing from theunderlying 4novel-.fea-

ltures of the invention, and this application is intended to cover anydepartures or modified procedures coming 'within the spirit -of theinvention or the scope of the following'claims.-

We claim:

1. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper,attaching a welt to the upper, clamping -the upper on to a last byinstrumentalities' located between the upper and welt, cementing a vsoleto the welt by applying pressure to the sole and welt against saidclamping instrumentalities, and simultaneously forming a design on theupper surface of the welt through the pressure against said clampingmeans.

2. The method of making shoes which consists in forming anupper,stitching a welt to the upper, and lasting the upper by ilrstpositioning between the welt and upper asubstantially L-shaped clampingplate having a tapered edge which engages closely between the welt andupper entirely across the toe portion, along one side, and across a partof the heel portion. and thereafter bringing into clamping relation acomplementaryplate having va tapered edge which engages closely betweenthe upper and welt along the other side and the remaining .part of theheel portion. l 3. The method of making shoes which consists in formingan upper, stitchinga welt 'to the upper, and lasting the upper bypositioning between the upper and welt a substantially ment with theother `side and remaining part of 1465 the heel portion about a pivotat4 oneend of the first mentioned plate.

4. The method of making shoes whichv consists in forming an upper,stitching a weltA to the upper, and lasting the upper by moving asubstantially L-shaped plate having a tapered edge laterally into closecontact between the upper and welt into engagement with the eritire toeportion, one side, and partof the heel portion of the upper andthereafter bringing a complementary plate having a tapered edge whichengages closely between the upper and welt by a swinging motion aroundone end of the rst mentioned plate into engagement with the othex` sideand remaining part of the heel portion.

5. The method of making shoes which consists in clamping an upper on toa last by first moving a substantially L-shaped plate having a taperededge laterally into close contact between the upper and welt intoengagement with the entire toe portion, one side, and part of the heelportion, thereafter positioning a complementary plate having a taperededge into close contact between the upper and welt in engagement withthe other side and remaining part of the heel portion, and holding saidplates in clamping relation while cementing a sole to the welt bypressure of the latter against said plates.

6. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper,stitching a welt to the upper, clamping the upper to a last by rstmoving a substantially L-shaped plate having a tapered edge laterallyinto close contact between the upper and welt into engagement with theentire toe portion, one side, and a part of the heel portion, thereafterpositioning a complementary plate having a tapered edge into closecontact between the welt and upper in engagement with the other side andremaining part of the heel portion by a swinging movement of 7. Themethod of making shoes which consists in forming an upper, applyingcement to the inner surface of a welt, thereafter stitching the welt tothe upper, lasting the upper, holding the upper on the last by clampingplates shaped to conform to the last and applied between the upper andwelt, and applying cement to a sole and aiixing the sole to said welt bypressure while the upper is held in place on the last by said clampingplates.

8. The method of making shoes which consists in forming an upper,applying cement to the inner surface of a Welt, thereafter stitching thewelt to the upper, lasting the upper by moving a plate laterally betweenthe upper and welt and thereafter swinging a complementary plate about apivot on the first plate and thereby moving the complementary platebetween the welt and upper by a lateral swinging movement, said plateshaving tapered edges that engage closely between the upper and weltentirely around the shoe, locking the plates in clamping relationship,and cementing a sole to the welt while pressing the latter against saidplates.

WILLIAM G. HEIBER. ENEL R. MIENG. Y'

